I'm clinically insane. That's the only explanation. And you know, this really isn't my fault, I can't be held responsible - this is because of lack of sleep (I do crazy things when I'm sleep deprived, like making rp journals) or the fact that the water was shut off this morning in my apartment (Me last night: I want to wash my hair. Mmmm, better not, there's never hot water at night. Me this morning: *turns on the facet* *no water at all* Oh, you are kidding me.) Oh! Finals. This is because of finals. And I'm still half-sick. Really, I can't be expected to make rational decisions right now.
*takes deep breath*
So you want to know what I'm not doing?
This morning, I did not take screencaptures of Suki's awesome and fiendishly complex outfit.
I am not poking around on fabric sites looking at what's available.
I am not looking at pattern sites and thinking, 'hmm, am I crazy, or would that Tibetan Chupa make a good base for her outfit'?
Oh, god, I'm clinically insane aren't I?
Flist, I throw myself on your mercy.
Help.
If you could either a.) find and return my sanity
b.) give me the information on cosplay, specifically time/skill/money estimates, ideas on how to make the vest, headdress, arm bracers and detailing.
c.) smack me across the mouth and stick my head into a bucket of ice water.
A-Line Skirt]
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The chupa looks good; see this about Wonderflex if you think the armor vest is somewhat rigid. Otherwise, you could make a paddded/quilted thing instead.
(I've done a little bit of SCA costuming but not much cosplay.)
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And hey, as far as I'm concerned, SCA costuming and cosplay is a real potato-patahto situation, you know?
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Welll, both of them take a certain amount of looking at drawings and trying to figure out how to transform them into wearable clothing ... .
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Oh ... I think I see, you were thinking I meant SCA costuming re the armor? No, armory in SCA isn't considered costuming at all - because, as I think you were implying, it actually has to function as armor. I've never done armoring! Yes, that's a completely different skill set.
But the costuming part isn't that different.
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The Chupa would be a good start -- the neckline in particular is pretty close, it's not a banded kimon style of neckline (don't forget to check the screencaps of Azula and the Dangerous Ladies stripping off their disguises in Ba Sing Se for good shots of the robes without the armor. The biggest changes are you need to set on somewhat loose sleeves, make the skirts more A-line than straight, and have them somewhat open in front so it can be worn over another darker wrapped skirt. I'd make the bracers as a separate item that laces/velcros/whatever on top of the loose sleeve -- notice how in the screencaps there's a little ruffled edge of what looks like the sleeve fabric sticking out under the wrist-edge of the bracers. The shape of the armor is very reminiscent of Japanese armor, so I'd say you definitely want something that's somewhat flexible rather than a solid-metal-breastplate sort of feel -- most of the Kyoshi and Suki cosplayers I've seen just went for green vinyl with stitching lines to match the lines on the costume.
No idea on (a), mine's long gone! (b) is all so so variable, I don't know what your sewing skill levels are like and I've been sewing so long, taught it for a while even, that my ideas of what is and isn't easy are kind of warped? If you're starting with the chupa as a base, though, you'll need to be able to sew darts, set in sleeves, and otherwise make some large alterations, so we're definitely not talking rank-beginner level here; if you go for vinyl or pleather for the armor that can also be a little tricky to handle if you're not used to the stuff. Costs are so variable depending on what fabrics you're using and where you shop that I'd be reluctant to venture a guess. Arm bracers, at least, I could give you a pattern for easily, I've got some leather ones that could be used as a base; for other ideas, try taking a look at
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I'm definetly thinking the bracers are seperate, and then I'll get some of that pretty, thick pre-embrodered stuff and sew it down the sleeves. I'd love the pattern for the bracers, by the way.
For the the armour vest I was thinking of really simplying it, and going for a more simple vest in a thicker fabric.
My skill level:
not an utter rank beginner. I've made a skirt before (a rather nice one, with insets) however, I helpfully have my grandmother was helping me. However, I am fairly notive, so I don't know many terms, and I'm rather unschooled.
Advantages: I have brillant sewers around me, including my mother (who is not grandmother level of brillance but still better than me). I'm fairly good with my hands, and I am fuel by the power of CRAZY!
Thanks for the links, and the links. *bows*
(The advantage of the kubuki make-up would be that the dark circles wouldn't even register.)
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http://www.wodefordhall.com/kosode.htm (http://www.wodefordhall.com/kosode.htm)
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/Jap123s.html (http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/Jap123s.html)
Traditionally, the pieces were cut to a standard size, and then the fit was adjusted by taking wider or narrower seam allowances. That's an extra layer of confusion you probably don't need as a beginner, though; the Folkwear yukata pattern has the proper garment shape and guidelines for different sleeve styles, but marked in more gaijin-friendly sizes. (A quick search on sewingpatterns.com shows cheap Butterick and Simplicity kimono costume patterns -- they might not have all the authentic finishing details included in the Folkwear pattern, but the basic lines look similar and they're pretty cheap!).
However, the girls' dark green overrobes aren't quite cut like a basic kimono; the neckline is a little higher, and lacking the band; the sleeves are longer and narrower, and the overlap on the front pieces is much higher up on the chest; the silhouette of the neckline and front overlap is less like a kimono and more like a men's cheongsam (http://www.mandarintouch.com/index.php?cPath=2_158) style, similar to the more Chinese-influenced fashions with asymmetrical front closures that seem popular in the Earth Kingdom in particular. (It's definitely not tight set-in sleeves and close-fitted bodice like a modern qipao, like the Folkwear "Hong Kong Cheongsam pattern"; it's a lot closer to their "Chinese Jacket" (http://www.folkwear.com/114.html) pattern, the version with the stand-up mandarin collar and assymetric close. If you wanted to try to work straight from patterns with minimal alterations, using that jacket for the top and a slightly a-line skirt with a bit of pleating at the front could work, then just use the basic skirt pattern to cut an overskirt that is a few inches shorter and split in the front, cut from the same lighter fabric as the jacket. Or you could use hakama for the underskirt -- that's another one of those things you can just do from a diagram:
http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/graphics/patterns/hakama1.PDF?53,17 (http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/graphics/patterns/hakama1.PDF?53,17)
http://www.sarcasm-hime.net/hakamapattern.html (http://www.sarcasm-hime.net/hakamapattern.html)
...although again, Folkwear's pattern is nice and detailed if you feel more comfortable not working from a chart.
For her armor, the animators skimmed on the details so you can't really tell if it's supposed to open up at the back or the sides; Japanese armor of similar shapes could fasten either way, so really you can just pick whatever you like. This page has some really detailed stuff for SCA folks building their own: you don't want to go that fussy level of working with individual metal plates, but it'll give you a good idea of how the overall pieces should be shaped and fit together:
http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/katchu.html (http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/katchu.html)
The arm bracers, I can draft you a pattern from these leather bracers I've got -- you could pretty much do them out of one large piece of whatever pleathery stuff you use for the armor, some appliqued trim and edge bindings, if you're not scared of working with stretch fabrics I'd suggest filling in the section where mine lace up with just a flat panel of spandex in a matching green, so you can just pull them on over your hands and they'll fit snugly over the sleeves. Gloves you can find patterns for, but working with those tiny pieces and stretch fabrics might be a bit much for a beginner -- simpler to get readymade gloves in a matching color, or dye to match, and just embellish with a bit of trim.
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*brain tries to inhale it all at once* *fails*
Gloves are actually the one part of the costume I already have. ^_^
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This (http://images.cosplay.com/showphoto.php?photo=492612) and this (although you can't really see it well) (http://images.cosplay.com/showphoto.php?photo=413946) were made from a robe pattern by Simplicity. If you catch JoAnns around holidays, you can get those patterns for $2. A few minor adjustments can easily turn it into the main of the dress.
Her head piece can easily be made of pieces of polystyrene plastics, which you can usually find small sheets of in hobby stores (they're commonly used for model making.)
Overall, this is not a *particularly* difficult cosplay. It'll take a little time and a little learning, but really, truly, by comparison to most, this is on the easier side.
Also, if you get on JoAnns' mailing list, as much as it will spam you, you'll get some killer coupons (Hancock fabrics too, if you have those near you.)
Another, cheaper option than the Wonderflex (as amazing as that stuff is) is a Craft foam armor. (http://www.entropyhouse.com/penwiper/costumes/helmsdeep.html) I've played with the method before but have never really fully made a piece.
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That's for the suggestion of Suki's headdress.
What do you think of smilaraaq's suggestions for adapting the pattern, and do you have any hints for how to do that?
Also, I really, really wish that one of the awesome people who do cosplay lived near me - I have you a state away, smilaraaq across the country, and my grandma a 1/2 hour outside my home down. The good news is that my mother is a bit better at sewing then I am, and since I'm the fruit of her loins, she has to put up with my craziness.
(Also, at this point, ideas on how to get her on my side for this insane project would be helpful - I'm thinking of doing the math and arguing that I can make it cheaper than buying a leather jacket and fake-leather pants, and that this way I'll get to practice my sewing skills.)
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Anyhow, having dealt with historical-esk patterns before, they're hardly for the novice. I would honestly suggest going to a fabric store and raiding their pattern books and seeing if you can't find something suitably similar that you can modify. (I can't really help with what needs modification until we know the exact pattern to be used.) Simplicity is the best by far for beginners. Everyone that I know will atest to that these days. XD
Gee, I guess this means you'll just have to come visit. XD
You got her on your side for Saiyuki....I can't imagine getting her on Avatar would be that much harder. :D
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(But I like Folkwear and Vogue, so my biases for fussiness are probably very very evident...)
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Folkwear are pretty good on detailed instructions, since so much of their line consists of historical or ethnic styles that are likely to be unfamiliar to the basic home stitcher who doesn't have a primary focus on costuming. They sometimes tweak things to be a little friendlier to modern street wear and construction techniques, but often give alternate instructions for doing things more traditionally; I haven't yet tried Alter Years, but while the complexity of the patterns varies, the thoroughness of the instructions is way, way beyond the totally un-beginner-friendly approach of stuff like the historical costumes from Richard the Thread (http://www.richardthethread.com/index.php?submenu=Patterns&src=gendocs&link=patterns), which I have used -- those do very much assume that you mostly know what you're doing and don't need much hand-holding at all.
Red, you should probably talk with your mom or grandma, whoever's going to be your primary go-to helper here, and see if they have a particular favorite pattern line to work with, too -- PZB would steer you towards Simplicity and I'd go for Vogue or Folkwear, but if they really prefer, say, McCalls, it can't hurt to stick with what they know and like.
Aside from the speciality historicals that you're not gonna find on the shelves at Jo-Ann or Hancock anyway, the one major brand I would steer a relative beginner away from is Burda; unlike the American pattern lines, they don't include seam allowances on their pattern pieces, so you have to mark and add those on yourself -- extra work, and a bit confusing if you're not used to it. And the instructions are all translated from the German -- they're generally not terribly awkward at least, but that may add just another layer of unfamiliarity to the whole process.
I'd also recommend getting a good, basic, heavily illustrated guide like Vogue Sewing (http://www.amazon.com/Vogue-Sewing-Revised-Knitting-Magazine/dp/1933027002) or Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing (http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Sewing-Readers-Digest/dp/0762104201) -- no matter how friendly and hand-holdy the pattern instructions are, they still might not always be as clear and detailed as a book with actual color photographs along with the diagrams; and if the pattern confuses you, the books may explain the parts you're stuck on better. You can pick up older used copies of either of those fairly cheaply if you hunt online or check used bookshops -- if you can overlook the dated styles and colors shown on some of the finished projects, the basic information on construction techniques and terminology will all be the same; the only thing that might be lacking from really old copies is a section on working with overlock machines, and if you don't have one available to you anyway you hardly need to brush up on that! :)
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And those books are a great idea - I'm sure I can find one or both of them at the library, and it will be awesome to have a resource like that, so I'm not going in blind.
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I have ALWAYS been planning on coming to visit you prior to Sukura Con. (However, will you be insulted if I come bearing cosplay as well as gifts?)
Well, it's going to be a lot harder because I'm going to need her help, and Suki cosplay is going to be way more time consuming than Gojyo would be. However, I have a plan ride to think up rationalizations, and I'm come up with some REALLY GOOD ones so far.
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And I wasn't sure if you were going to make it before Sak, since you had been concerned about school and such. But let me know when you think you'll be down this way (obviously not at the moment, as I know you won't know yet...hell, you could call me and say, "Hey, I'm on my way" and that would be fine XD)
I'm sure your mom will help you no matter what the reasoning. :D
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I am thinking that if I work on the dress during the weekends I'm home (with the sewing machine), the braces, headdress and sash at college, and then if I come down during (I know there's one) three day weekend and have you help me with the vest/armour... I might be possible to have that outfit done in 3 months. (When is Sakura Con again?)
Yes, she will, but it's best if she's solidly on my side for these sorts of things.
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Sak is March 24-26 I do believe. That's a good plan though. The dress shouldn't take you more than a couple days and getting all the little odds and ends done that don't need a sewing machine while at school is a great idea.
We can discuss later how you want to approach the armor. Both this (http://pics.livejournal.com/pzb/pic/00023579/g8) and this armor (http://pics.livejournal.com/pzb/pic/00022p29/g8) were done with vinyl, which you'll want a special sewing machine foot for (which I have :D) but there's also the other method I mentioned before. The vinyl would likely be the cheaper (and somewhat easier) way to go, now that I think about it. We could just cut strips and sew them together and maybe do a little painting to create the illusion of more depth....we'll talk about it.:D
If I don't catch you before hand (if I haven't missed you already) have a safe trip home. :D
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*grins* It's all about time management. And caffine. (And getting my mom on my side, who was like, "You'll make a gorgeous Suki!" Followed by,"well of course I'll help/this is a good idea."
And you have the special foot, huh? How nice. And the cutting strips/painting sounds like a good idea.
And I had a fairly decent trip home, except for the last flight, where we entered the fifth dimension, where time has no meaning.
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Hee, I knew your mom would be in on it. :D
Yeah, it's called a walking foot, and essentially, what it does is lift and pull the fabric along instead of the fabric just sliding underneath it. Very, VERY handy with things like vinyl which just sticks to the machine, or very thick sections, like two layers of vinyl and heavy thick cotton pipping (been there, done that.)
Heh, yeah I think we all hit the fifth dimension on the way home Saturday. XD But glad you made it home safely.
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Since the underskirt doesn't really show much except at the hem and at the center front where the outer robe parts, you can probably just fake that however is easiest -- anything vaguely A-line with a couple of deep diagonal pleats at the right hip, you could just take a plain slightly flared skirt and then place another layer with a couple of pleats in it just across the front to fake that wrapped effect.
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With this skirt situation, I think it would be easier to just have a simple, kind of full plain underskirt, and then find a way to manipulate the chupa or cut out part of the skirt so that it shows. (And it's I've just suggested something horrible, feel free to tell me. *waves newbie flag*)
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If I were doing it I'd probably mostly construct it mostly like a kimono, but I'd eliminate the neck binding, draw the upper edges of the neckline up a bit higher to compensate and finish it all with a facing; put in darts at the waist to eliminate a little bulk, and cut the lower half separately so it would be a little more flared and not overlapping at the center front like the bodice does. Hell, if you're not planning on running around without your armor and aren't a stickler for authenticity, you could just even treat them as two separate pieces -- do a wraparound top, and then make an A-line skirt in two layers; by the time the armor and sash are on, nobody will be able to tell the overskirt and bodice aren't actually attached at the waist.
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the disadvantage is you'd have to graft the sleeves on, and the armscyes are curved; looking at the girls without the armor, their robes definitely have the straight-line sleeves and shoulder seams of a basic kimono, even if the neckline is a little funky
And I like the idea of doing spliting the costume up and doing the top + 2 skirts - that might be a way to break it down and simplify it. *ponders*
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All I can say though, is that after making the dress and the make up, I BETTER have people stopping and asking for my photo, that's all I have to say. *smiles* *is a comment whore in all forms of fandom interaction.*
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And I'm sure you'd get your picture taken, probably even in groups since Avatar cosplay seems to be getting more and more popular.
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Speaking of sleep problems -- RED, PZB, you both NEED this!
No, really. I'm not making this up. That's a whole SERIES of CDs of seiyuu counting sheep. OH, JAPAN, DON'T EVER CHANGE!
Downloadable version of the first disc (with Hakkai and Goku tracks) here (http://community.livejournal.com/capslocksaiyuki/4097.html).
Re: Speaking of sleep problems -- RED, PZB, you both NEED this!
Re: Speaking of sleep problems -- RED, PZB, you both NEED this!